Quite often couples are drawn to vintage engagement rings. Some for the romance of the ring having already being loved and having history, others for the beauty and elegance of the period they were crafted in.
Whatever your reason for taking this path, if you choose to do so, just make sure the ring hasn’t been worn to death!
Here are a few things to consider for when hunting down your dream vintage ring.
Almost all Art Deco rings of the 1920’s have mill-grain detailing. As well as being aesthetically delightful, it also serves a purpose. Mill-grain is rolled into the leading edges of the fine setting work that holds diamonds and other precious gems in place. It is applied with a small tool called a mill-grain wheel and is there to work harden the metal, usually platinum.
Look very closely at the ring, if the mill-grain is low and worn the beads that hold the diamonds into the setting are also likely to be worn, meaning your diamonds are next to go.
This is no easy fix, you cannot simply reapply the mill-grain, or the grains that secure your diamonds, it will need to be fully remade.
Now the thing is, in the 1920’s materials were expensive and labour was cheap. The task of making an engagement ring was broken down and allocated to specialty craftsmen. There would be some jewellers pouring ingots, others rolling alloys, jewellers making settings and bands, jewellers soldering components, diamond setters setting diamonds and finally jewellers polishing the finished pieces. Essentially a production line streamlining the efficiency and effectiveness of the making process, thus ensuring a premium product.
Now days jewellers have to do it all themselves, most still use diamond setters, but 90% of the work is done by one soul, every step. It takes years and years of practice and dedication for jewellers to learn their skills; and days, sometimes weeks, to remake these rings. The romance of buying vintage can soon become very costly.
Along with assessing mill-grain and the beads holding in the diamonds, have a good look at the band. Is it thin and narrow? Has it been worn out by a wedding and eternity band rubbing on it for 75 years? Have the bands cut into the sides of the setting, compromising its strength and beauty? Has the filigree detailing been destroyed by the constant rubbing?
Do a quick web search and see what worn-out grain setting looks like. Then ask the seller or retailer to provide you with a loope and assess the ring yourself, there should be nice little beads of platinum over the crown facets of the diamonds securing them into the setting.
Always ask questions:
Does this ring come with a warranty?
When was it last checked by a jeweller?
Quite simply, is this ring worn out?
The seller should be able to answer these questions and if not, I’d advise shopping elsewhere.
The final advice I’d give would be to hold the ring between your thumb and middle finger by the bottom of the band, hold it to your ear and tap the setting with your index finger, if you hear a rattle, the ring needs work.
Don’t let the process of selecting a vintage ring overwhelm you, there are some absolutely stunning vintage Art Deco rings sitting is stores longing to be loved again. As a designer and master jeweller I’ve spent countless hours gazing trancelike into vintage shop windows gathering inspiration and dreaming up designs. I have a deep love for Art Deco and vintage rings and see vast potential in giving them a second life, it’s just important to do your research and know what you’re buying.
